A brooch is a decorative item of jewellery attached to clothing by a hinged pin and catch on the reverse. It developed from the functional fibulae and pins used since antiquity to fasten cloaks and garments, and over time became primarily ornamental, worn on the lapel, bodice, collar or hat.
Antique brooches survive in an enormous range of forms and materials, from Georgian paste and mourning brooches containing hair to the Victorian cameos, micromosaics, Scottish agate brooches, jet from Whitby and gold-mounted gemstones popular during Queen Victoria's reign. Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau makers produced brooches in silver and enamel, while the Art Deco period favoured geometric designs in platinum, diamonds and later in plastics such as Bakelite and Catalin. Dating relies on construction as well as style: early pins often extend beyond the edge of the brooch and use simple C-shaped catches, while safety catches became common in the twentieth century. Collectors look at the quality of stones and settings, hallmarks or makers' marks, condition of enamel and evidence of later alteration. A good brooch can be worn today or displayed as a small work of art.
