Goldwork is a form of embroidery using metal threads, traditionally of gold or silver-gilt, together with spangles, purls and other metallic elements, to create rich, shimmering decoration on fabric. Because metal thread is too stiff to pass repeatedly through cloth, most goldwork is couched, with the gold threads laid on the surface and secured by fine stitches of silk.
Goldwork has been practised for many centuries in Europe, the Middle East and Asia. In England it reached a peak in the medieval church embroidery known as opus anglicanum and was used lavishly on Tudor and Stuart costume, accessories and furnishings. Techniques include padded work over felt or card for raised effects, the shaded technique called or nué, in which coloured silks tint the gold, and the use of coiled purl threads. From the eighteenth century goldwork became closely associated with military uniforms, insignia, regimental colours, masonic regalia and church vestments, much of it produced by specialist firms. Collectors look for fine, even stitching, crisp raised work and bright, untarnished threads. Tarnish and wear are common, and metal threads should never be cleaned with metal polish. A textile conservator can advise on stabilising and displaying fragile pieces.
