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THE SHACKLETON FOX ENCYCLOPAEDIA

The Shackleton Fox Encyclopaedia

An A–Z guide to antiques, decorative arts & collecting terms.
A growing reference library designed to help collectors, interior designers and antique enthusiasts better understand objects, materials, makers, periods and craftsmanship.
ABOUT THE ENCYCLOPAEDIA

A trusted reference for collectors and connoisseurs.

Explore the language, materials and craftsmanship behind antiques and the decorative arts. Browse alphabetically, search for a specific term, or filter by subject. Each entry connects you to related definitions and broader areas of collecting knowledge.
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The A–Z Reference Library

Textiles

88 terms

A

Axminster Carpet

Textiles

An Axminster carpet is a high-quality woven carpet first produced in the Devon town of Axminster during the eighteenth century. Renowned for its durability and richly coloured patterns, it became a favourite choice for stately homes, country houses and grand public buildings. Antique Axminster carpets

B

Braid

Textiles

Braid is a decorative woven trim used to embellish upholstery, curtains, lampshades, military uniforms and soft furnishings. Produced from materials such as silk, cotton, wool, linen or metallic threads, braid has been used for centuries to add texture, definition and refinement to both furniture and

Brocade

Textiles

Brocade is a richly decorative woven fabric characterised by raised patterns, often incorporating silk, metallic threads or elaborate floral and scrolling motifs. Originating in the medieval period and reaching great popularity during the Renaissance and Baroque eras, brocade has long been associated with luxury furnishings,

Brussels Carpet

Textiles

Brussels Carpet is a high-quality woven carpet developed in Brussels during the eighteenth century and widely adopted throughout Britain and Europe during the Victorian period. Recognised for its looped pile construction and intricate woven patterns, Brussels carpets offered exceptional durability while retaining an elegant appearance.

Brussels Lace

Textiles

Brussels Lace is a fine handmade lace traditionally produced in Brussels, Belgium, and renowned for its exceptional delicacy, intricate floral patterns and remarkable craftsmanship. Dating from the sixteenth century, Brussels Lace became highly fashionable throughout Europe and was widely used for collars, veils, handkerchiefs, wedding

Button Upholstery

Textiles

Button Upholstery, often referred to as button tufting, is a traditional upholstery technique in which fabric is secured with evenly spaced buttons to create a deeply padded, quilted appearance. Popularised during the Victorian period, the technique is commonly found on Chesterfield sofas, armchairs, headboards and

C

Calico

Textiles

Calico is a plain-woven cotton fabric originally imported from Calicut in India, from which it takes its name. Known for its strength, versatility and natural appearance, calico has been widely used since the seventeenth century for upholstery linings, curtains, household textiles and artists\' canvases. Antique

Camel Hair

Textiles

Camel Hair is a luxurious natural fibre obtained primarily from the soft undercoat of Bactrian camels. Valued for its exceptional warmth, softness and durability, it has been used for centuries in the production of fine upholstery fabrics, rugs, blankets and clothing. Antique textiles incorporating camel

Canvas

Fine Art & ArtistsMakers, Designers & ManufacturersTextiles

Canvas is a strong woven fabric traditionally made from linen, hemp or cotton, used as a support for paintings. Introduced as an alternative to wooden panels during the Renaissance, canvas became the preferred surface for oil paintings due to its durability, flexibility and lighter weight.

Cashmere

Textiles

Cashmere is one of the world\'s finest natural fibres, obtained from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats. Renowned for its remarkable softness, warmth and lightweight qualities, cashmere has long been associated with luxury textiles, fine throws, upholstery and clothing. Antique cashmere textiles are highly prized

Chenille

Textiles

Chenille is a soft woven fabric distinguished by its velvety pile and luxurious texture. The name derives from the French word for *caterpillar*, reflecting the fabric\'s fuzzy appearance. Popular from the nineteenth century onwards, chenille has been widely used for upholstery, curtains, cushions and decorative

Chintz

Textiles

Chintz is a glazed cotton fabric traditionally decorated with colourful floral or botanical designs. Originating in India during the seventeenth century, chintz became immensely fashionable throughout Europe for use in upholstery, curtains, bed hangings and soft furnishings. Antique chintz is particularly associated with English country

Crewel Work

Textiles

Crewel Work is a traditional form of decorative embroidery worked using wool threads on linen or cotton fabric. Dating back to the medieval period and particularly popular during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, crewel embroidery often depicts flowers, birds, trees and scrolling foliage. Antique crewel

Crochet

Textiles

Crochet is a needlework technique in which yarn or thread is looped together using a small hooked needle to create decorative fabrics. Popular during the Victorian era for lace, shawls, tablecloths and household textiles, crochet ranges from delicate lacework to heavier decorative pieces. Antique crochet

Cross Stitch

Textiles

Cross Stitch is one of the oldest and most recognisable forms of counted-thread embroidery, created by forming X-shaped stitches on an evenly woven fabric. Traditionally used to decorate samplers, cushions, pictures and household linens, cross stitch became especially popular during the Georgian and Victorian periods.

Cut Velvet

Textiles

Cut Velvet is a luxurious woven fabric distinguished by its dense upright pile, created by cutting loops during the weaving process to produce a soft, rich surface. Used extensively in fine upholstery, curtains and wall coverings since the Renaissance, cut velvet has long been associated

D

Damask

Decorative ArtsMaterialsTextiles

Damask is a richly woven reversible fabric distinguished by its intricate patterns, traditionally featuring floral, botanical or geometric motifs. Originally produced from silk in the city of Damascus, damask later became widely woven in linen, cotton and wool. Antique damask has long been used for

Darning Sampler

Textiles

A Darning Sampler is a textile created to demonstrate and practise a variety of darning and mending techniques, traditionally produced by students learning needlework. Popular during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, darning samplers feature carefully stitched examples of repairing holes, reinforcing worn fabric and recreating

Dimity

Textiles

Dimity is a lightweight cotton fabric characterised by raised woven stripes, cords or geometric patterns. Popular during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, dimity was widely used for bed hangings, curtains, upholstery, children\'s clothing and household furnishings. Its crisp appearance, durability and subtle texture made it

Double Cloth

Textiles

Double Cloth is a woven textile consisting of two separate layers of fabric connected during the weaving process to create a thicker, more durable material. Historically used for blankets, outer garments, upholstery and decorative furnishings, double cloth provides improved insulation, strength and stability while allowing

Drapery

Textiles

Drapery refers to decorative fabric used for curtains, wall hangings, canopies, furniture coverings or the depiction of flowing textiles in sculpture and painting. Within historic interiors, drapery has played an important role in adding warmth, privacy and decorative richness, while in fine art it demonstrates

Drawn Thread Work

Textiles

Drawn Thread Work is a decorative embroidery technique in which selected warp or weft threads are carefully withdrawn from woven fabric before the remaining threads are grouped and stitched to create openwork patterns. Popular from the Renaissance onwards, it appears on household linens, ecclesiastical textiles,

Dress Panel

Textiles

A Dress Panel is a decorative section of embroidered, woven or embellished textile originally intended to form part of a garment or ceremonial costume. Antique dress panels often feature intricate embroidery, beadwork, metallic thread or lace and are valued today both as examples of historic

Duck Cloth

Textiles

Duck Cloth, often simply known as Duck, is a strong, closely woven cotton or linen fabric traditionally used where durability was essential. Originally employed for sails, tents and workwear, it was later adopted for upholstery, artist\'s canvases, luggage and industrial applications. Antique duck cloth is

E

Embroidered Linen

Textiles

Embroidered Linen refers to linen fabric decorated with hand-stitched embroidery, commonly used for household textiles, table linens, bed coverings and clothing. Valued for its durability and fine weave, linen provided an ideal foundation for decorative stitches including floral motifs, monograms and openwork designs. Antique embroidered

Embroidered Silk

Textiles

Embroidered Silk is silk fabric enhanced with decorative hand embroidery, often incorporating silk threads, metallic threads, beads or sequins. Throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries it was widely used for luxurious garments, wall hangings, cushions, screens and ecclesiastical textiles. Antique embroidered silk is admired for

Embroidered Tapestry

Textiles

An Embroidered Tapestry is a decorative textile created by stitching designs onto a woven fabric rather than weaving the image directly into the cloth. Often depicting landscapes, floral arrangements, biblical scenes or pastoral subjects, embroidered tapestries were popular during the Victorian period as decorative wall

Embroidery

Decorative ArtsTextiles

Embroidery is the decorative art of embellishing fabric using needle and thread to create patterns, images or ornamental designs. Practised for thousands of years across many cultures, embroidery has been used to decorate clothing, furnishings, ecclesiastical textiles and domestic linens. Antique embroidery is highly valued

Empire Silk

Textiles

Empire Silk refers to luxurious silk textiles produced during, or inspired by, the French Empire period of the early nineteenth century. Characterised by elegant woven patterns, classical motifs and rich colours, Empire silks were widely used for upholstery, curtains, wall coverings and fine furnishings in

English Needlework

Textiles

English Needlework encompasses the rich tradition of decorative embroidery and textile arts produced throughout England, including samplers, crewel work, whitework, stumpwork and ecclesiastical embroidery. Renowned for its precision and artistic quality, English needlework flourished from the Tudor period through the Victorian era, often reflecting changing

Eyelet Embroidery

Textiles

Eyelet Embroidery is a decorative needlework technique in which small holes are carefully cut into fabric and finished with closely stitched edges to create ornamental openwork patterns. Frequently used on linen and cotton, eyelet embroidery became especially popular during the Victorian and Edwardian periods for

F

Fabric

Textiles

Fabric refers to any woven, knitted or non-woven textile used in the production of furniture, upholstery, curtains, clothing and decorative furnishings. Antique fabrics include linen, silk, wool, cotton and tapestry weaves, each valued for its craftsmanship, texture and historical significance. Original period fabrics are highly

Felt

MaterialsTextiles

Felt is a non-woven textile created by compressing and matting natural fibres, most commonly wool, using heat, moisture and pressure. Traditionally used for table coverings, protective linings, hats, upholstery and decorative applications, felt has long been valued for its durability and insulating properties. Antique felt-covered

Fine Linen

Textiles

Fine Linen is a high-quality textile woven from flax fibres, celebrated for its exceptional strength, smooth texture and natural lustre. Used for centuries in table linens, bedding, clothing and fine household furnishings, fine linen was particularly prized during the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian periods. Antique

Floral Textile

Textiles

Floral Textile refers to fabric decorated with flower and botanical motifs, either woven, embroidered, printed or tapestry-woven. Floral textiles have remained popular throughout history, appearing on upholstery, curtains, cushions and decorative furnishings in styles ranging from Georgian chintz to Arts and Crafts designs. Antique floral

French Brocade

Textiles

French Brocade is a luxurious woven silk fabric distinguished by raised decorative patterns created using supplementary weft threads, often incorporating metallic gold or silver yarns. Widely used for upholstery, curtains, ecclesiastical textiles and formal furnishings, French brocade became synonymous with luxury during the seventeenth, eighteenth

French Silk

Textiles

French Silk refers to luxurious silk textiles woven in France, particularly in the city of Lyon, which became Europe\'s leading centre for fine silk production. Celebrated for their exceptional quality, rich colours and intricate woven patterns, French silks have been used for upholstery, curtains, wall

French Tapestry

Textiles

French Tapestry is a richly woven textile traditionally produced in France, depicting scenes such as landscapes, mythology, hunting, floral arrangements and historical subjects. Renowned centres including Aubusson and Gobelins produced some of the world\'s finest tapestries, celebrated for their exceptional artistry and craftsmanship. Antique French

Fringed Lampshade

Textiles

Fringed Lampshade is a decorative lampshade finished with a border of fabric fringe, tassels or beaded trim around its lower edge. Popular during the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco periods, fringed lampshades create a warm, diffused light while adding movement and elegance to antique table

Fringing

Textiles

Fringing is a decorative textile trim formed from hanging threads, tassels or braided cords, used to embellish upholstery, curtains, lampshades and soft furnishings. Popular throughout the Victorian, Edwardian and Arts and Crafts periods, fringing adds texture, movement and elegance to traditional interiors. Antique fringing is

G

Galloon

Textiles

Galloon is a narrow decorative woven trim traditionally used to embellish upholstery, curtains, lampshades, military uniforms and fine furnishings. Produced in silk, linen, cotton or metallic threads, galloon has been used for centuries to conceal joins while adding elegance and refinement. Antique galloons are particularly

Gauze

Textiles

Gauze is a lightweight, open-weave fabric traditionally woven from cotton, linen or silk. Valued for its delicate texture and translucency, gauze has been used in clothing, curtains, embroidery and decorative textiles for centuries. Antique silk gauze was particularly popular during the Georgian and Victorian periods

Georgian Needlework

Textiles

Georgian Needlework refers to embroidered and stitched decorative textiles produced during the Georgian period (1714--1837). Often created as samplers, pictures, fire screens and household furnishings, Georgian needlework demonstrates exceptional skill using techniques such as silk embroidery, cross stitch and crewel work. Antique examples are highly

Gilt Thread Embroidery

Textiles

Gilt Thread Embroidery is a decorative embroidery technique incorporating gold-coloured metallic threads to create richly ornamented designs. Widely used on ecclesiastical vestments, military uniforms, ceremonial textiles and luxury furnishings, gilt thread embroidery has long been associated with prestige, craftsmanship and fine decorative arts. Antique examples

Gobelin Tapestry

Textiles

Gobelin Tapestry refers to a finely woven tapestry produced by or in the style of the renowned Manufacture des Gobelins in Paris. Established in the seventeenth century under the patronage of Louis XIV, Gobelin tapestries are celebrated for their exceptional craftsmanship, vibrant colours and elaborate

Gold Embroidery

Textiles

Gold Embroidery, also known as Goldwork, is the art of decorating textiles using gold or gold-coloured metallic threads. Dating back to antiquity, it has been widely used for ecclesiastical vestments, military regalia, ceremonial clothing and luxurious furnishings. Antique gold embroidery is admired for its richness,

Grosgrain

Textiles

Grosgrain is a durable woven fabric distinguished by its characteristic ribbed texture, traditionally produced from silk and later from cotton or synthetic fibres. Valued for its strength and elegant appearance, grosgrain has long been used for ribbon, upholstery, millinery, bookbinding and decorative trimming. Antique silk

Guipure Lace

Textiles

Guipure Lace is a richly decorative lace characterised by embroidered motifs connected by bars or plaits rather than a net background. Originating in Europe during the Renaissance and flourishing throughout the Victorian period, guipure lace was widely used for clothing, bridal wear, furnishings and ecclesiastical

H

Haircloth

MaterialsTextiles

Haircloth is a durable woven textile traditionally made from horsehair, often blended with cotton, linen or wool. Widely used during the Georgian and Victorian periods for upholstery, haircloth is valued for its strength, resilience and distinctive textured finish. Original haircloth upholstery is highly regarded by

Hand Embroidery

Textiles

Hand Embroidery is the decorative art of embellishing fabric using needle and thread, entirely by hand. Traditional embroidery techniques have been practised for centuries across Europe and beyond, producing intricate floral, figurative and geometric designs on textiles, furnishings and clothing. Antique hand embroidery is admired

Handwoven Linen

Textiles

Handwoven Linen is linen fabric produced on a hand loom using fibres spun from the flax plant. Before industrial weaving, virtually all linen was woven by hand, resulting in subtle variations in texture and weave that reflect the skill of the maker. Antique handwoven linen

Hemp Cloth

Textiles

Hemp Cloth is a natural textile woven from fibres obtained from the hemp plant (*Cannabis sativa*). Known for its exceptional durability and resistance to wear, hemp cloth has been used for centuries to produce sacks, sailcloth, upholstery, household textiles and workwear. Antique hemp textiles are

Hessian

Textiles

Hessian, also known as burlap, is a coarse woven fabric traditionally made from jute fibres. Historically used for sacks, upholstery foundations, agricultural storage and protective coverings, hessian also plays an important role in traditional upholstery, where it provides structural support beneath stuffing materials and springs.

Homespun

Textiles

Homespun refers to cloth that has been hand-spun and handwoven using traditional domestic methods rather than factory production. Commonly produced from wool, linen, hemp or cotton, homespun fabrics were widely used for clothing, household textiles and upholstery before industrialisation. Antique homespun textiles are valued for

Horsehair Upholstery

MaterialsTextiles

Horsehair Upholstery refers to the traditional use of horsehair as the primary stuffing material in upholstered furniture. Favoured throughout the Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian periods, horsehair provides exceptional resilience, durability and breathability, allowing furniture to retain its shape for many decades. Original horsehair upholstery is

Hungarian Embroidery

Textiles

Hungarian Embroidery is a traditional textile art distinguished by its richly coloured floral motifs, bold geometric patterns and intricate hand stitching. Originating from rural regions of Hungary, particularly Kalocsa and Matyó, these embroidered textiles decorated clothing, household linens and ceremonial fabrics. Antique Hungarian embroidery is

J

Jacquard Weave

Textiles

Jacquard Weave is a woven textile technique using a specialised loom attachment, invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in 1804, that allows complex patterns to be woven directly into the fabric, revolutionising the production of figured silks and tapestries.

Jute

MaterialsTextiles

Jute is a coarse, natural plant fibre traditionally used for sacking and matting, and, from the 19th century, woven into rugs, wall coverings and upholstery backing valued for its texture and durability.

K

Kid Leather

MaterialsTextiles

Kid Leather is a soft, fine-grained leather made from young goatskin, historically used for gloves, book bindings and upholstery detailing where suppleness and a smooth finish were required.

Kilim

Textiles

A Kilim is a flat-woven, pileless rug or tapestry made across the Middle East, Central Asia and the Balkans, distinguished from knotted-pile carpets by its lighter weight and geometric, often tribal-influenced patterning.

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