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THE SHACKLETON FOX ENCYCLOPAEDIA

Jacobean Embroidery

Jacobean embroidery is a style of English needlework associated with the early seventeenth century, characterised by bold, stylised designs of twisting branches, exotic flowers, leaves and fruit, worked in coloured wools on a linen or linen and cotton twill ground. It is closely related to, and often used interchangeably with, crewel work.

The style developed during the reigns of James I and Charles I and reached its fullest expression in the later seventeenth century, when large bed hangings and curtains were embroidered with the so-called tree of life design rising from hillocks populated by small animals and birds. These designs drew on Indian painted cottons, Chinese ornament and herbals, and were often worked in shades of green and blue, later with brighter colours. Embroidery of this kind was revived by the Arts and Crafts movement and remained popular for upholstery and cushions throughout the twentieth century. Collectors value genuine seventeenth- and early eighteenth-century pieces for their rarity and vigour, but should note fading, moth damage, repairs and remounting. Later revival work is more plentiful, and both suit oak furniture and panelled rooms.

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