Whitework is embroidery worked in white thread on a white ground, usually linen, cotton or fine muslin, in which pattern is created through texture, openwork and the play of light rather than colour. The term embraces many distinct techniques, including drawn thread work, cutwork, pulled work, broderie anglaise, Ayrshire work and padded satin stitch.
Whitework has a long history in European household and costume textiles, and it was particularly fashionable for collars, cuffs, caps, christening robes, handkerchiefs, bed linen and table linen. Dresden work of the eighteenth century imitated lace through pulled-thread patterns, while Ayrshire work, made in the west of Scotland in the earlier nineteenth century, became known for delicate floral motifs with needle-lace fillings on fine muslin. Broderie anglaise, with its eyelet holes, was widely produced in the Victorian period, increasingly by machine later in the century. When assessing whitework, collectors look at the fineness of the stitching, the balance of the design and whether a piece is hand or machine made. Yellowing, brown age spots and weak areas are common; careful cleaning by a textile specialist can often improve appearance without harming the fibres.
