Broderie anglaise is a form of whitework embroidery in which small holes, or eyelets, are cut or punched in a white fabric and their edges are overcast with buttonhole or satin stitch to form floral and geometric patterns. Traditionally worked in white thread on fine white cotton or linen, it has a fresh, lacy appearance while remaining more robust than true lace.
The name, meaning English embroidery, reflects its strong association with Britain, although similar eyelet work was made across Europe. It became especially fashionable in the mid-nineteenth century for petticoats, chemises, collars, baby clothes, christening gowns and the edges of pillowcases and sheets. Hand-worked broderie anglaise was gradually replaced by machine-made versions, which became widespread later in the century and are still produced today. Collectors distinguish hand embroidery by its slight irregularities, the density of the overcasting and the reverse of the work. Condition is key: yellowing, foxing, holes and weakened threads are common, and old whitework should only be washed with great care or by a textile conservator. Antique pieces are popular for cottage-style bedrooms, nurseries and dressing tables.
